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Bete Ethio­pian CuisineEthiopian restaurants share this with area steakhouses: As many as there are, you'd think one would get the formula -- service, food, ambiance -- right. Bete in Silver Spring won't win any design or service awards. But the family-run establishment does some dishes so well, I'm willing to forgo comfort and attention for an hour or so in Addis Ababa. Order the equivalent of steak tartare, kitfo, and out comes a bowl of seasoned, butter-drenched chopped beef to rival any for...
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